Mere steps away from the beach, Varenichnaya is the place to go for Russian dumplings of all shapes and sizes. The potato vareniki are smaller than your average Polish-style pierogi and come topped with dry caramelized onions that taste like candy. If you’re after pelmeni, the Siberian meat-filled variety is exceptional, though my personal favorite meat dumpling here is the manti, which are the size of a baseball and come topped with a generous handful of fresh chopped dill. If you find yourself craving Varenichnaya more often than you’re able to make it down to Brighton, they also sell their dumplings frozen in packs of 50.
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