A small storefront less than a block from Houston in the East Village, V-Nam is a place that you could walk by time and again without even noticing. Next time, take notice, and head to the counter inside the four-table space. The bánh mì here are about the size of Subway footlongs, so they're great to split with someone else. Order the classic version with cold cuts and sweet BBQ ground pork, or get the beef bánh mì with medium spice. (The spiciest level comes with Thai chilies that tend to overwhelm the juicy meat and vinegary vegetables.) For something on the side, get the crackly fried spring rolls, and complete your meal with a Vietnamese iced coffee.

Emily Schindler