NYCReview

photo credit: Kate Previte

Superiority Burger image
8.0

Superiority Burger

BurgersVegetarian

East Village

$$$$Perfect For:VegansVegetariansSee And Be Seen
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To the unindoctrinated, Superiority Burger looks like a retro, East Village-themed diner, with photos of Taki 183’s graffiti and the legendary St. Marks eatery Dojo on the walls. It’s the kind of place you might take an NYU freshman who’s recently finished reading Just Kids and wishes they’d been around during the last centurya freshman who might be surprised to learn that Superiority itself only opened in 2015. 

This vegan burger joint could easily feel contrived: an East Village theme park running on nostalgia and the chef’s scene cred (he’s a hardcore drummer-turned-pastry chef). But where that punk rock ethos comes off the walls and into the present is in the freewheeling kitchen, which supplements its culty vegan burgers with oddball experiments in diner-friendly vegetarian comfort food. Not every experiment works, but the ones that do keep us coming back.

Superiority Burger image

photo credit: Kate Previte

Superiority Burger image

photo credit: Kate Previte

Superiority Burger image

photo credit: Kate Previte

Superiority Burger image

photo credit: Kate Previte

Superiority Burger image
Superiority Burger image
Superiority Burger image
Superiority Burger image

Superiority Burger first opened around the corner, in an impossibly small space that quickly drew lines around the block for its burgers and gelato. It’s since moved into the old Odessa diner, a legendary Ukrainian late-night spot, where people would land for tuna melts and stuffed cabbage after shows at A7. They’ve kept the worn leather booths and if-walls-could-talk interiors intact, and they’ve even included an homage to Odessa’s stuffed cabbage on the menu, filled with sticky rice and earthy mushrooms instead of beef. 

The cabbage is a hit, and it’s just one of many intriguing and ever-changing side dishes that play out like riffs in a jam session. Some, like the roasted white sweet potato, are still stuck in our heads, with labneh and pickles coming together harmoniously. The burnt broccoli salad is so crispy and salty that it makes french fries, which don’t appear on the menu, feel too mainstream for a place like this. But some ideas are definite skips, like wilted, bitter bbq okra, or a bowl of busted marcella beans that arrives with a hard, useless breadstick on top, and no flavor in tow. 

Art school experiments aside, Superiority’s quinoa-chickpea veggie burger still impresses, but the best sandwich here is the collard greens on sesame seed focaccia. It may look and sound boring, but once you try it, you’ll forgive any failed sides. The dessert specials—and some of the city’s best gelato—are more reasons to return to this occasionally imperfect but always fresh restaurant.

You can expect a wait around prime dinner time, but walk in for a quick burger in the back bar area, or go for a late-night catch-up with friends. Or sit at the soda counter, next to someone who used to frequent A7 back in the day, and would be happy to tell you all about it over some tapioca pearl pie.

Food Rundown

Superiority Burger image

photo credit: Kate Previte

Superiority Burger

Made with quinoa, chickpeas, carrots and walnuts, this patty is still a certified classic, though it refuses to hold itself together for more than a couple of bites. It’s a solid burger, but there are a lot more of this kind around now than when Superiority debuted it. This won’t disappoint, but the other sandwiches are more intriguing.

Collard Greens Sandwich

The crusty focaccia used to have a following of its own, back when Superiority 1.0 would make batches with surprise toppings on “Focaccia Fridays.” Now sesame-covered slices of it hold together a melty mix of seasoned greens and sharp cheddar cheese that beats the burger, in our book.

Superiority Burger image

photo credit: Kate Previte

Yuba-Verde

This exquisite sandwich involves chewy strips of tofu skin, chickpeas, broccoli rabe, and mayo on a crusty baguette. It’s more expensive than the other sandwiches at $19 (an apologetic note on the menu compares the price of premium yuba to wagyu), but it’s a special combination and you won’t find anything like it around.

Superiority Burger image

Roasted White Sweet Potato

The East Village It Girl of baked potatoes, this white sweet potato is topped with an herbaceous green sauce, labneh, and pickles. Order it.

Superiority Burger image

photo credit: Kate Previte

Spicy Lentils & Cornbread

The cornbread starts crumbling into the smashed, smoky lentils and cabbage on the way to the table, and that’s exactly how we like this wholesome dish.

Busted Beans

We don’t quite understand these marcella beans. They’re watery and lacking in flavor, and come with a rock-hard sesame bread stick that isn’t for dipping or scooping. Why?

Sloppy Dave

This fork-and-knife sandwich is tomato-heavy, but the onion-tomato mix has a nice gravy-like texture if you’re into the flavor. Get it if you're in the mood for something saucier.

Superiority Burger image

photo credit: Kate Previte

Sweet And Sour Beets

Another dish where we’re asking why, but with better results. The beets sit on a pile of jalapeno cream cheese and are topped with fried pretzels. Do these things all need to be in the same bowl? Not really. But when you start eating all the scraps on your plate, you realize they were meant to be combined all along.

Superiority Burger image

photo credit: Kate Previte

Tapioca Pearl Pie

This space-age key lime pie is gorgeous, but we personally couldn’t eat more than one bite. If your teeth have a higher tolerance for sugar than ours, go ahead and get a slice.

Citrus Funnel Cake with Labneh Ice Cream

Another excellent use of labneh, this dessert perfectly balanced and not too sweet. The funnel cake has a subtle orange glaze and airy texture.

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FOOD RUNDOWN

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