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Shukette in Chelsea is one of the many restaurants in NYC right now where it’s impossible to walk in. Even three weeks in advance, you might only be able to score a 9pm reservation. Don’t let that discourage you. The breads and dips here are worth messing up your body’s circadian rhythm for a night, including a slightly crispy frena bread, creamy labne that you use fried squash blossoms to scoop up, and an excellent version of hummus. Stick with more small plates than large ones - the gyro with the spiced Moroccan fries makes for a hearty entree, but you’re better off filling your table with as many breads and small plates as possible.

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