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Seamore's

PHOTOS: Noah Devereaux

We’ll admit that when it was announced that Michael Chernow, owner of The Meatball Shop, was opening a new seafood concept restaurant in Nolita, we were skeptical. Not because we don’t love The Meatball Shop or seafood, but because a trendy, casual place near Chinatown where people come to eat fresh caught fish every day sounds on paper more like a business idea that Adam Levine or Blake Lively or their newly formed venture fund would come up with rather than one launched by a successful restauranteur.

But if one thing is consistently true when it comes to making money on food in New York City, it’s that doing one thing and doing it right is the quickest way to success. And after several visits to Seamore’s we can tell you that this is a restaurant done right.

Once you’ve spent some time here, you’ll quickly come to the realization, as we have, that Seamore's is actually genius. What Chernow and whoever backed this idea clearly realized is something that most restaurants don’t right now: this is how young people in New York City want to be eating. Seamore’s is a place where you can come with a group of friends, spend a somewhat reasonable amount of money, have a nice night out, and (most importantly) eat something healthy. The menu is entirely focused on serving whatever kind of sustainable, fresh fish is available, in many different forms. You can have it in a taco, you can have it on a sandwich, or you can have it in a bowl, and everyone knows that healthy things come in bowls. That’s how you keep all the nutrients inside.

The environment is cool and casual, the drinks range from craft beer to cold pressed juice with vodka in it, and the only dessert is one rotating flavor of Odd Fellowes soft serve. On one of our visits, the flavor was actually some kind of vegan dark chocolate, and I’m pretty sure I saw three girls fighting to take hits of it directly from the machine.

If that's not proof of concept, I don't know what is.

Food Rundown

Poke

Poke is all anyone in LA wants to talk about right now, and we'll admit that we have been having some tuna envy. This version at Seamore's isn't quite the revelation that eating at Sweetfin for lunch in Santa Monica is, but it'll do in a pinch.

Kale + Avocado Salad

Yes, it is your duty as a smartphone carrying, Instagram loving citizen to eat a kale salad whenever presented with the opportunity. Do your duty. Make a meal of it and add a piece of fish.

The Reel Deal

You choose one piece of fish from the three or so that will be available that day, and a sauce to accompany it. It will arrive at your table in a bowl, atop some side vegetables and possibly some soba noodles. Again, whatever is fresh and in season. It's a well rounded meal, and probably the best thing on the menu.

Fish Tacos

Fish tacos at Seamore's come two ways: "crispy" and "seared sesonal." We like the seared version better, but the reality is that neither will be the best thing you eat here. If you must, you'll likely be satisfied, but we'd recommend spending your money and stomach space on other things from this menu.

Oh Boy Skate Sandwich

This play on a po boy is an excellent option should you be feeling a sandwich. The pickled peppers make it.

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