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NYC

Review

Red Paper Clip

Red Paper Clip

Written by
Red Paper Clip

When the servers bring the third course of the tasting menu at Red Paper Clip, they’ll tell you that the egg yolk between the two slices of brioche is cooked at exactly 72 degrees. Even if you usually just cook eggs on high until you smell smoke, you’ll appreciate the attention to detail when the brioche, egg, and trout lox all come together in your first bite. That same level of thoughtfulness shows up in all six courses, many of which have Chinese influences, like the soup dumpling agnolotti in a black vinegar broth or the beef carpaccio with Sichuan oil. The food at this West Village tasting menu spot from two Blue Hill At Stone Barns chefs wouldn’t feel out of place in a white tablecloth restaurant that charges twice as much (dinner here starts at $95), but it’s served in a dark, casual space by servers who make small talk rather than lecture you about cooking techniques. Though maybe they could help with your scrambled eggs.

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