Comebacks are admirable, but not all of them are good ideas. The first Jordan comeback? That worked out because he won three more rings. The second one with the Wizards? Not so much. The return of Maialino, a beloved Danny Meyer restaurant that’s back after a two-and-a-half-year pandemic hiatus, is a success—mostly because of the things that haven't changed. The new, tighter menu is made up of the greatest hits from the old place, and the Roman-style dishes are as good as they ever were.

This revamped spot in Nomad does have some differences though—like the addition of “vicino” (which means “nearby”) to the name. That’s a reference to the fact that it’s now located in The Redbury Hotel, a few blocks north of its previous location. Breakfast and lunch are no longer served, and the former rustic farmhouse-like space has been replaced with a more intimate setting. The new candlelit room, with its terrazzo floors and black-and-white photos, feels romantic, so this place is perfect for a night out with that person who’s causing you to ignore all your friends at the moment.

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

Even if you don’t have someone in your life who would be your costar in a Nora Ephron movie, find someone to share a bunch of Maialino’s comforting food with you. Start with their best dish, the vitello tonnato—which you’ll be thinking about for the rest of the year—then move on to the classic spaghettini alle vongole and extremely tender roasted lamb shoulder in a rich jus. Both are ideal dipping partners for one of the better free bread baskets in the city.

At one point, this restaurant's return was uncertain and, frankly, not entirely necessary. No one really says: “We could use more Italian restaurants in New York.” But the food here is like someone you haven't spoken to in a minute, and as soon as you reconnect, you'll immediately remember why you're such good friends. We’re glad Maialino is still around, and you will be too.

Food Rundown

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

Vitello Tonnato

This starter is the best thing here. The thinly-sliced veal has the texture of medium-rare roast beef, and it’s topped with a peppery anchovy sauce that’s drizzled with olive oil. Crispy fried capers add some crunch.

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

Insalata

Maialino’s insalata is their version of a caesar salad. The mixed greens taste like they were yanked out of the dirt a few hours before being put on your plate, and they’re tossed with anchovies, lemon, crumbled breadcrumbs, and a ton of pepper. It’s a solid salad, and you should order it.

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

Bucatini All’Amatriciana

All we want to say about this bowl of pasta is that the thick-cut pieces of guanciale will make you involuntarily say bad words out loud. We can’t think of a time when we’ve had better salt-cured pork jowl.

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

Spaghettini Alle Vongole

You can’t get more classic than this pasta in a garlicky white wine sauce with plump clams. If you ignore this dish because you've already had countless versions in your life, you'll regret it.

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

Abbacchio

This fall-apart tender slab of lamb shoulder is seasoned with fennel and rosemary and sits in a pool of rich meat juice. It’s a big portion, which is convenient, because you can throw your leftovers inside some grilled ciabatta the next day for a memorable sandwich.

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

Maialino Al Forno

If you’re with a big group, get this long piece of suckling pig with a golden brown layer of crackly skin. The whole thing is placed on top of a bunch of roasted rosemary potatoes. But if you have to choose only one secondi, go for the lamb.

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

Funghi Trifolati

These roasted cremini and shiitake mushrooms are seasoned with thyme, but it’s the colatura that makes this dish our favorite contorni here. The Italian fish sauce made with anchovies adds a salty umami boost.

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

Tiramisu

Maialino offers some gelato from Caffè Panna (owned by Danny Meyer’s daughter) and a fairly moist olive oil cake, but we recommend the tiramisu. It has the ideal lady-finger-to-fluffy-cream ratio. You can taste a bit of alcohol, but not too much.