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NYC

Review

Noah Devereaux

M. Wells Dinette

Written by
Noah Devereaux

When you think of unique dining locations around the city, you probably think of boats on the Hudson, hotel rooftops, or any place with cool sinks in the bathrooms. We think of M. Wells Dinette. The small cafeteria is located within MoMA PS1, a huge modern art museum in Long Island City. In order to get inside, you need to walk through the museum’s entrance, a big, spookily barren courtyard out front, and then down a couple hallways within the museum. The restaurant is run by the same people behind an expensive steakhouse a few blocks away that serves things like $150 dry-aged porterhouse, and it’s laid out like a classroom, with chalkboards, school tables, and chairs. If you ever daydreamed about drinking a beer at your desk in social studies class, this is your chance.

The menu rotates weekly, but you can expect a couple salads and heavy soups. There’s also likely to be tartare, terrine, or other rich animal spread on the chalkboard menu. This place closes at 6pm, which is part of the reason we prefer the smaller dishes, like cauliflower soup, and if they have the escargot, get it with a side of bread. If you’re looking for a unique lunch experience, eating foie gras at a desk in a classroom inside a contemporary art museum is about as far from Sweetgreen as you’re going to get.

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