Little Tonino’s is a relic of Brooklyn’s bygone era, where a perpetually half-full jar of Sanka hangs out behind the register, and photos of Sinatra and someone’s grandkids are tacked to the walls. The vodka pie, which comes loaded up with tangy pink sauce, generous dollops of ricotta, and a coating of low-moisture mozzarella, is the real move here. The bottom cracks satisfyingly when you fold it, and the crust has a good amount of chew and fluff. If you’re a fan of softball-sized arancini, the one’s here are worth trying too.
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