Leo

NYC has a lot of world-class pizza, and the very best can be a total pain in the ass to get your hands on. (Yes, that’s us giving you the side-eye, Lucali.) Leo, opened by the Ops team in 2019, stands out because it’s not only one of the best pizza spots in the city, but it’s also easy to get into. You can walk into this casual, spacious Williamsburg restaurant on a whim with three of your friends, and getting a table will likely not be an issue.

Pizza is really all about the crust, and Leo is doing their own thing with it. You’ll like what they’re doing. Their crust is somewhere between a flatter, slightly crispy New York style and a poofy, chewy Neapolitan, and—because it’s made with sourdough—you’ll taste a noticeable tang.

photo credit: Kenny Yang

Although the margherita is an automatic order at a lot of places, we prefer their pies with toppings. Our favorite is the garlicky clam version, which makes all future train rides to New Haven unnecessary. If you want a larger pizza with your own custom combination of toppings, get the NY slice pie, which is made with a mozzarella, provolone, and pecorino base.

Pizzas aren't the only things worth trying at Leo. Get a bowl of housemade pasta and a small plate like the surprisingly complex butter beans with charred cabbage, and pair your food with something from the substantial natural wine list. For dessert, there’s always a rotating flavor of soft serve. Whatever it is (fig leaf and melon, for example), order it.

If you’re in the mood for top-notch pizza and didn’t have the foresight to anticipate this craving two weeks ago when reservations around the city were still available, you don’t have to settle for the mediocre slice shop around the corner. Come to Leo, have a pleasant sit-down meal, and contemplate why all restaurants with great food can’t be this painless.

Food Rundown

photo credit: Kenny Yang

Caesar Salad

From its description, you may think the chopped salad sounds a lot more interesting, but the caesar is unquestionably the better salad. It comes with huge leaves of crisp lettuce showered with grated parm, breadcrumbs, and a generous amount of anchovies.

Butter Beans

Admittedly, we weren’t expecting much from this dish—but it’s Leo’s best appetizer. The soft beans come with charred cabbage, a garlicky aioli, and a few breadcrumbs for some subtle crunch.

photo credit: Adam Friedlander

Meatballs

Moist, slightly crumbly, and on the verge of falling apart, these meatballs have the perfect texture. You might want to reserve some of the tangy tomato sauce for pizza dipping.

photo credit: Kenny Yang

Tagliatelle

You’ll see two pasta options on the menu, and if the tagliatelle bolognese is available, get one less pie and replace it with this. The fresh pasta is thick, al dente, and comes tossed with a hearty, meaty ragu.

photo credit: Adam Friedlander

Clam Pie

When you’re in the mood for pizza, your mind might immediately go to something with tomato sauce and mozzarella. If you want the best pie on the menu, though, get this one with clams, pecorino, cream, and plenty of garlic.

NY Slice Pie

In case you’re wondering, the crust on this pie is the same as all the others—it’s just bigger at 18 inches. Add as many toppings (mushrooms, anchovies, pepperoni, etc.) as you want to the mozzarella, provolone, and pecorino base. Conveniently, there’s a bottle of chili oil on every table. Use it on this and everything else.

photo credit: Kenny Yang

Soft Serve

The soft serve flavor changes constantly, and we honestly don’t care what it is. We order it no matter what, because it’s always fantastic. Past flavors have been cantaloupe/basil and salted caramel/grape.