Le Dive is in the middle of Dimes Square, the perennially-packed Lower East Side micro-neighborhood where fashion trends go to live fast and die young. So it should come as no surprise that this natural wine bar is kind of annoying. But that buzzy, annoying energy is part of why you come here (and visit Dimes Square in general). The space itself is fairly small, with a handful of stools and a single row of tables, but the seating-filled plaza out front has plenty of room for any twentysomethings who want to sniff natural wine. Since “à manger” sounds chicer than “to eat,” the menu is partly in French, and it has a few snacky options like burrata, charcuterie, and some pleasantly peppery steak tartare. Share the big chunk of lightly smoked salmon with a friend, get a $17 glass of orange wine from Portugal, and eavesdrop on the people wearing high socks with loafers seated next to you. This place doesn’t take reservations, so you might have to wait an hour for your table, but you should find that wait reassuring. It’s how you know you’re in Dimes Square.

Teddy Wolff

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