In Paris, there are probably a million places like L’Antagoniste. But you don’t live in Paris. You live in New York, and you’re reading this right now at your desk in Midtown. Or on a subway. Or at your apartment that’s smaller than you ever dreamed it would be. So maybe you should appreciate L’Antagoniste. It’s a nice little French place in Bed-Stuy where you can get some steak frites or duck l’orange. It isn’t especially affordable, but it also isn’t stuffy or formal, and you can come here with a date the next time you feel like spending a little cash.