When Jing Fong’s 800-seat banquet hall on Elizabeth Street shuttered during the pandemic, we thought we were losing an NYC institution forever. But thankfully, it was just a Steven Soderbergh-type false alarm. (We’re still waiting for Ocean’s Fourteen.) The new, single-floor space on Centre Street is much smaller, but the dim sum is better than ever.

There are still roving carts with chicken feet, fried turnip cakes (our favorite), and egg tarts, but none of these dishes ever seem like they've been sitting around for more than a few minutes. And if you don’t see a dish you want rolling by, just mention this to the accommodating staff, and someone will bring it to you straight from the kitchen. You can also order tons of non-dim sum items like smoky and not-at-all-greasy beef chow fun and roast duck with some of the most fatty, flavorful, and crispy skin in Chinatown. If you don't get here by 11:30am on the weekends, prepare to wait outside for a while.