When you get to this spot in Greenwich Village and hear the muzak playing as you take in the dining room that gives off “1980s dentist office in a strip mall” vibes, you’ll have little hope that the sushi is going to be good. But we’re convinced the decor exists simply to disarm you.

The quality of Genki’s 13-course $68 omakase is surprisingly high. Each course is notably large, and most pieces come aggressively seasoned with soy, yuzu, or chili sauces. We especially like the slightly firm and fatty kanpachi, the sweet and buttery shima aji, and the barely-seared wagyu with uni. You can add on handrolls and “Fun List” creations like salmon and toro with tomato and quail egg, but you’ll have to do so before your hour time limit is up. (They’re very serious about getting you in and out within 60 minutes.) This place is currently BYOB, but if you don’t bring anything, the chefs are happy to pour you a few shots of sake on the house.

photo credit: Genki Omakase