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NYC

Review

Noah Devereaux

The Four Horsemen

Noah Devereaux

Have dinner at The Four Horsemen, and there’s a good chance you’ll decide that wine should become your new extracurricular activity. You won’t just want to drink it (although mostly you’ll want to drink it)—you’ll also want to become the sort of person who knows a little about it.

If wine school doesn’t sound all that exciting to you, stop by The Four Horsemen for an informal education. Think of this tiny Williamsburg restaurant as an eating and drinking classroom that’s always filled with people who look like they’re in bands you don’t know about but should. Coincidentally (or not), this place is partially owned by James Murphy—yes, that James Murphy of LCD Soundsystem. There are probably tourists who come here just to look for him, but the crowd mostly feels like people who eat or drink here often.

David A. Lee

The Four Horsemen focuses on natural wine, so you’re bound to find something a bit funkier than your standard $12 bottle of Pinot Noir. No matter how busy this place is or how many band members are at the other five tables around you, the people working here will happily walk you through the wine list and help you find something you’ll like. You’ll want to stay here long enough to keep trying new suggestions. You know, all for the sake of learning.

You could easily spend a whole night here just sampling wine, but the food is what will make you want to come back. Like most wine bars, there’s cheese, charcuterie, and olives, and there’s even some homemade bread and butter. But we rarely eat those things (except for the bread), because there’s so much other good stuff on the menu. Dishes change regularly, but expect things like cured fish with yuzo kosho, saucy fried chicken with onions and mushrooms, mussel skewers with aioli, and an excellent plate of fried potatoes.

The next time you have some free time on a Saturday and you start panicking about what it means that you have free time on a Saturday, come to The Four Horsemen. The space is half bar and half dining room, and it works for dates, drinks with friends, and solo meals. Get a glass of wine and a few plates of food, and you’ll have found your new hobby.

Food Rundown

The menu changes here often (there will always be bread), but here’s a sample lineup.

Warm Bread, Cultured Butter

They are very serious about their bread at The Four Horsemen. You should be too.

David A. Lee
Crispy Potatoe Pavé

Crispy squares that are made up of many layers of thinly sliced potatoes. It’s impossible to think of the best way to consume potatoes, but this dish is a lock for the top five.

Yellowfin Tuna

Don’t call it a crudo. This cured tuna has a more velvety texture than a typical raw slab of fish, and the tonnato sauce and yuzo kusho give this dish a citrusy punch. This is the kind of plate that encapsulates what makes Four Horsemen an exciting place to have dinner.

David A. Lee
Maine Mussel Skewers

Biting garlic, finely chopped herbs, plump mollusks, and rich mayo. What a damn combo that needs to be on your table.

David A. Lee
Fried Chicken

One of the sauciest fried chicken dishes we’ve ever had. Even though the breading is covered in rich sauce, cooked down onions, and mushrooms, the thing still stays crisp.

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