NYCReview

photo credit: Adam Friedlander

For All Things Good image
8.6

For All Things Good

Mexican

Bedford-StuyvesantBrooklyn

$$$$

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Corn is much more than the lead character in glucose syrup or a yellow ingredient found in complimentary chips—it’s a crop with a several-thousand-year history that could fill every gallery at The Met. While most restaurants treat the starchy vegetable like a sidekick to some other meaty entree, For All Things Good is giving Mexico’s native corn varieties the spotlight they truly deserve.

Traditionally, heirloom corn was harvested and turned into masa through a process called nixtamalization. It’s then used to make tortillas, tlayudas, memelas, and other dishes. That's exactly what this Mexican cafe and molino in Bed-Stuy does. When you walk down the stairs into this basement-level spot, you'll see massive sacks of corn lining the walls, waiting to be ground down and fried for a Fort Greene dad wearing head-to-toe Carhartt.

The housemade heirloom corn tortillas comes in colors like blue, purple, and red—each one a different shape with it’s own unique taste. These are the best tortillas we've had in NYC, and you can enjoy them all day in dishes like the tetela trio, the avocado tlacoyo, or, our favorite, the mezcal mushroom tlayudita. Start your morning with this crispy tortilla layered with beans, cheese, and a fistful of hen of the woods mushrooms. You’ll be all set up for success.

Food Rundown

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Mezcal Mushroom Tlayudita

This palm-sized Oaxacan dish is topped with black bean paste, cheese, salsa macha, and a generous serving of hen of the woods. These sauteed mushrooms are the perfect, peppery pairing for the cripsy tlayudita underneath, which is always served warm.
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Tetela Trio

These little pockets of yellow, blue, and purple masa are our favorite starters to share with the table here. Each one is stuffed with gooey chihuaha cheese, minty black bean, and hibiscus flower, respectively. You can also order a few extra tetelas individually and stash them in your pocket for later.
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Breakfast Tlayudita

Our go-to order for brunch, this crunchy, cheesy Oaxacan tlayuda is an all-around stunner. Every bite inolves a blend of crunchy handmade tortilla, runny egg yolk, creamy avocado, and freshly mashed black bean paste. What's not to love?
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Avocado Herb Memela

For All Things Good's memelas are like plump, purple masa cakes with a deep savory undertone, and they pair perfectly with creamy avocado slices. If you're looking for a vegan option, order this.
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Pinto Bean and Salsa Macha Tlacoyo

There's usually just one tlacoyo option on the menu at For All Things Good, and if you like the sound of bean-stuffed masa, you should definitely pritozite it. The thick, sail boat-shaped corn tortilla is cripsy along its raised egdes, which helps keep the fluffly avocado and herbs on top from collapsing onto your plate.

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FOOD RUNDOWN

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