NYCReview

Remember the almighty pizza party? It was what you got for every birthday under the age of twelve, every sleepover at Katie S.’s (who had, come to think of it, kind of neglectful parents), and every celebration after your youth soccer/kickball/basketball team win.

Emmy Squared, the second restaurant from the people behind Emily, is a full-on pizza rager - only with pizza better than anything your single-digit brain could have thought up. Emmy’s specialty is Detroit-style, which technically means it’s square and thick and the sauce is usually on top of the cheese - but those words don’t do it justice. Emmy Squared’s pizza is the fancy, actually-delicious version of the thick-crust stuff you ate at every childhood party: cheese-fried-crunchy-crispy on the outside, warm-fluffy-molten on the inside. If you were the antisocial kid who always hoarded the cheesy breadsticks in the corner, Emmy Squared’s pizza is your new best friend.

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Eating here feels like something your mom would only let you do on special occasions. But now you’re an adult. And being an adult means that there’s no one standing between you and some deep-dish pizza, mayo-covered waffle fries, and a double-decker fried chicken sandwich. And the way to properly appreciate that freedom is to get yourself to Emmy.

About that fried chicken sandwich: it’s excellent. So excellent that we’d tell you to come to Emmy Squared for it alone. There’s also an incredible burger that easily rivals, if not tops Emily’s, though it’s only available at lunch in the restaurant, or on certain days in the evening at their bar downstairs.

Even Emmy’s space feels like Katie’s basement, where all the pizza-eating went down. It’s a little dark, it’s a little cramped, and it’s a little uncomfortable - but guess what: no one cares about not having backs on their chairs when they’re eating the adult version of kid pizza in a restaurant, especially when lots of alcohol is involved.

Just like the birthdays and sleepovers of your childhood, Emmy Squared probably isn’t for your average Tuesday night. But when the special occasion warrants it - whether that’s after a particularly rough day, or when Katie’s visiting from Texas, or when you’ve had enough of being kind of healthy - you can’t treat your inner eight-year-old much better than a pizza party at Emmy Squared.

Food Rundown

Crispy Cheddar Curds

Breaded and fried cheese that you dip into marinara and spicy mayo. The fact that the rest of your meal is only going to get less healthy from here is either the reason you’re going to get these or skip them. We recommend the former.

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Okonomi Fries

If you’re unfamiliar with what happens to bonito flakes when they’re put on top of something hot, you may think you’ve accidentally ingested magic mushrooms and that your food is trying to talk to you. We can assure you that’s not the case, and we can also assure you that this is one of the most unique and delicious plates of waffle fries we’ve ever had.

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Caesar Salad

Think you need something green to balance out everything else that’s happening to your body during this meal? The salads are fine, but we’d advise you not waste your time, money, or stomach room. Eyes on the prize.

Spicy Chicken Sandwich

This being the prize. It’s the perfect spicy chicken sandwich, and we wouldn’t change anything about it.

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Spicy Meatball Sandwich

Same squishy pretzel bun, same excellent kick, plus meatballs and melty cheese - but overall not as strong an order as the chicken.

Le Big Matt Burger

If you’re someone who gets the least bit excited about burgers, consider this one non-negotiable. While the Emily burger is one thick, juicy patty, the Emmy Squared burger is the gourmet version of an In-N-Out double-double: two patties, tons of cheese, sauce, and a pretzel bun. It’s $25, and it’s worth it.

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Margarita

The real magic of this pizza is how they manage to get the sides and bottom so crisp, while keeping the inside so insanely fluffy. Add burrata and basil and some sauce and you’ve got actual nirvana. This is one of our two favorite pies here.

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Roni Supreme

The only pizza we know of that gives the Prince Street spicy square a run for its money. This is our other favorite pizza here.

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Marn Blanc

A ridiculously rich white pie. If you’re a big group and everyone wants to try a bite, get it.

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The Emmy

If you believe that ranch will always be superior to tomato sauce, then familiarize yourself with this ranch-based pie with peppers and onions (and a side of red sauce for good measure). It’s not our go-to, but we respect it.

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Hatchback

We love white pies, but we love them more when there’s a little something more besides just cheese. This one, with chorizo and chiles, is excellent.

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