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NYC

Review

Dough By Licastri

$$$$

I love a wafer-thin crust as much as the next gal, but when I first saw the long list of toppings on Dough’s specialty pies, I worried about the foundation. Could such a light crust effectively deliver all these toppings without crumbling under pressure? Time and time again, the answer is yes. I especially love the Purple Rain pie, topped with bechamel, smoked mozzarella, wild mushrooms, scallions, and Peruvian peppers. Between the rich, smoky cheese, the earthiness of the mushrooms, and bursts of sweetness from the petite peppers, this pie is exactly what a theatrical rock ballad cloaked in velvet would taste like if it were synthesized into edible form. The equally delicious Badda Bing will take you on an entirely different journey, perhaps in a Chevy Suburban down Route 17, into layers of dried bing cherries, bacon, bechamel, pecorino, gorgonzola, fresh mozzarella, and a drizzle of orange blossom honey. The sweet and salty bursts of flavor are intense, but strike the perfect balance.

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