Jody Williams and Rita Sodi could sell tap water and saltines on a barge in the Hudson, and it’d be one the toughest reservations in town. But, for now, the owners of I Sodi, Via Carota, and Buvette seem content to keep serving unpretentiously delicious food in the West Village. The Commerce Inn is their latest spot in the neighborhood, and it’s a bit of a departure from cacio e pepe and coq au vin. The menu here is full of dishes inspired by the Shakers. You’ll find relatively simple, hearty plates like some juicy leeks topped with bacon bits and a heavily brined pork chop over a bed of vinegary black eyed peas. It’s the sort of food you might eat at whatever the best tavern was in 1823, but it’s served in a small, charming space on Commerce Street with chalkboard menus and servers in matching beige chore coats. Bring a date, or grab a seat in the bar area up front and sample some Shaker delicacies, such as the 50/50 martini.