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NYC

Review

Brooklyn Suya

Generally speaking, fast-casual bowls are about as exciting as the transcript of a filibuster. But the Nigerian food at Brooklyn Suya is different. This is a tiny spot on Franklin Avenue with a few stools, and only enough room behind the counter for a single employee, a rice cooker, a cash register, and an oven full of incredible smoked and grilled meats. Each bowl comes with your choice of protein (we like steak or shrimp), a rice or kale base, add-ons (plantains are essential), and spice level. You should know that even the mild level is intense, and will temporarily claim your mouth as its own.

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