Brooklyn Square Pizza
Where we've featured it
If the upside down square pie at this Jackson pizza spot sent a slice of itself to 23andMe, we imagine it’d learn that it’s a very close relative of the Sicilian pie at L&B Spumoni Gardens in Brooklyn. As anyone who’s been to that Gravesend institution can tell you, that’s good company to be in. Order it by the slice at the counter up front, or sit in the large dining room, and wait for the truck tire-sized sheet of thick crust, fresh mozzarella, and tomato sauce to arrive at your table. Like at L&B, the crust isn’t as crunchy as you might expect, but it’s not at all soggy thanks to the layering, with cheese protecting the crust like an elastic poncho from the acidic tomato sauce on top.