After selling his Dominican-Texas-style smoked meats on the side of a road in Ozone Park and doing multiple pop-ups for a few years, pitmaster Ruben Santana has settled into a permanent spot at the Time Out Market in Dumbo. The moist brisket here is unquestionably some of the best in the city, and the chicharron has the ideal fat-to-meat ratio under a layer of crispy skin. But mealy and salt-saturated slices of turkey disappoint, and the dry beef sausage lacks the amount of grease you want. Most of their sides are forgettable, but the creamy and peppery coleslaw stands out as something you’ll want to throw on top of some pulled pork between two pieces of bread along with their house BBQ sauce. If you’re really hungry, get one of their well-marbled beef ribs that comes on a bone that’s literally a foot-long.