At Anto, a Korean steakhouse on 58th, a server in a suit will cook near-perfect, marbled cuts of meat for you on a tabletop bronze grill. This is technically the main event, but their raw bar dishes are what make a meal here electrifying. Order the mulhwe with an icy fermented chili chojang broth that we fantasize about drinking like a chilled wine, and get the huge carabineros prawns, which taste like they were pulled from a kimchi-flavored sea. The space itself looks like a sleek underground bunker where people with a lot of money discuss bear hugs and butterfly options over scotch, so it’s a bit too stuffy for a fun Friday night, but we’d come here for a client dinner or fancy date.