Anixi

New York's vegan dining scene moved past its patchouli-scented phase a few decades ago. Now you can have a meatless, five-course tasting menu at Dirt Candy, or a burger that bleeds like the real thing at PLNT Burger.

But decadence—the kind you indulge in when you want to live in a less insane version of The Wolf of Wall Street—still evokes carnivorous images of excess: steak, caviar, tax fraud. You’ll find that sort of unabashed glamor at Anixi, a plant-based operation in Chelsea. This outstanding Mediterranean restaurant is an ideal start to a big night out, preferably in your best faux fur.

photo credit: Kate Previte

photo credit: Kate Previte

photo credit: Kate Previte

photo credit: Kate Previte

photo credit: Kate Previte

From the chef behind Shark Tank-approved vegan franchise Beyond Sushi, Anixi leans heavily on fake meat and seafood products. (Besides being vegan, all the food and drinks are also kosher.) The appetizer on every table is an arak-cured soy salmon dish that’s committed to cosplay. Hanging from hooks on a small metal bar resembling a jerky rack, each strip of "fish" is painted with white stripes of fat. It’s borderline camp, and an indication that you shouldn’t take anything at Anixi too seriously. 

Every dish has an element of pageantry, like it's dressed up as meat in a play about meat. Comically large and seriously flavorful chick’n and steak kebabs arrive at the table crossed like swords in a medieval duel. The preserved lemon-cured tuna tartare comes with an absurd amount of caviar on top—you can afford it only because it's made out of black seaweed.

That’s the fun of this place: indulging in the same level of completely unserious excess that makes restaurants like Casino and Holiday Bar feel like nightclubs with Bacchanalian appetites. That includes the space, which borrows from the '80s Art Deco revival with white marble walls, green suede, and a blinding amount of crystal. Whether the pile of caviar you’re eating is real or not, it’s only appropriate that you eat it under a sparkling chandelier that could cover someone’s mortgage payment. 

Is Anixi the place to take that straight-edge Rise Against fan you picked up in the East Village? Probably not, unless they have a very generous sense of humor. (Take them to Superiority Burger.) Instead, bring a friend—herbivore or otherwise—who will prank call PETA with you after a few glasses of kosher wine.

Food Rundown

photo credit: Kate Previte

Arak Cured “Salmon”

This dish doubles as a great conversation starter. Besides the amusing presentation, they also found a genius way to add stripes of “fat” to each piece (it involves tapioca). For best results, top the velvety salmon with some cooling labneh and sumac dip, and eat it on a za’atar pita chip.

photo credit: Kate Previte

Grilled Chick’n Shish Kabob

Everything about this “chicken” skewer is just right. The turmeric-stained protein is surprisingly juicy, and comes with the perfect char. Anixi should open a gyro operation on the side—we need access to all of this fantastic plant-based meat without having to make a reservation.

photo credit: Kate Previte

Preserved Lemon Cured “Tuna”

Just when we were ready to relegate tuna tartare exclusively to sucky rooftop bars, Anixi got us back on the tartare train. Order this bright pile of saffron-heavy fish covered in avocado mousse, and you’ll see why Anixi’s sister restaurant, Beyond Sushi, has been so successful. The best part is the black seaweed caviar on top.

photo credit: Kate Previte

Crispy “Lamb” Cigars

Most dishes here come portioned for a small group, so everyone can get their fill of these crispy cigars. They’re also served with labneh dip to balance out the smokey lamb flavor.

3 Dip Mezze

You can choose between five thick, silky dips. Our two favorites layer a few different flavors: Get the taramasalata topped with orange seaweed caviar, or the vegan whipped ricotta topped with apricots and aleppo peppers.

photo credit: Kate Previte

Wild Mushroom Kabob

This is the only disappointing kebab. The tofu and mushrooms are covered in pomegranate molasses, but taste like they were marinated in balsamic vinegar—and nothing else—for far too long.

photo credit: Kate Previte

Olive Za’atar Pide

The menu has three pide options. We could take them or leave them. If you feel like having a big cheeseboat, the olive one is pretty good, but they just aren’t worth filling up on when you could try more exciting menu items.

photo credit: Kate Previte

Medjool Date Cake

You’re not going to eat in a room with this much suede and marble without encountering some edible gold. With a sprinkling of gold dust, this fudgy date cake swoops in to steal the show in the last act, when the waiter pours a warm chocolate ganache over the whole thing.