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Review

Saint-Germain

Saint-Germain

$$$$
Wine Bar  in  Bywater
Saint-Germain

Don’t let the outdated Sugar Park neon sign out front fool you: You can find this fun wine bar inside of a small house on St. Claude in the Bywater. Here it’s all about natural wines and a reservations-only, five-course tasting menu full of surprising dishes, especially during “Vegetarian Week,” which begins the third Thursday of every month and shows off the kitchen’s creativity. The menu is always rotating, but think fermenting, braising, smoking, poaching — anything that can be done to get the most out of seasonal, local produce (a recent dish featured spot prawn served with lovage and fermented tomato, for example). If you fail to make reservations, stop by anyway and dip into the bar snacks, like the table salad or the pate de campagne.

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