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Review

Deborah Jones

The Surf Club Restaurant

$$$$
Written by
Deborah Jones

Very expensive? Perhaps. But, in a city where so many restaurants promise guests a dose of old school glamour, The Surf Club is one of the few that truly delivers. The restaurant (which is from a chef whose last name rhymes with smeller) is located inside the Four Seasons Hotel, a historic property that will make you feel like Elizabeth Taylor stepping out for a night of whatever it was they did for fun in the ’50s. The menu reads like a greatest hits of dishes your grandparents probably loved. But the Surf Club makes them feel (and taste) exciting, not stuffy and boring. The tableside caesar is perfectly salty, and the $138 beef wellington is - yes - so freaking expensive but also one of the most memorable pieces of beef you’ll ever try. Dessert is outstanding too, especially the sundae. Like a terrifying roller coaster or a cross-country road trip, this might be a restaurant you only need to experience once. But it is worth experiencing.

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