To get to Tanka, you’ll have to step into a ‘90s time machine: The Grand Retail Plaza in Edgewater, a vintage mini-mall with pink mannequins in sequin dresses. Luckily, this Chinese restaurant is grounded in the 21st century with comfortable leather chairs, roomy green banquets, and a large window where guests can see into the recessed kitchen. They serve some really good dumplings. But the reason we’d pull a Bill & Ted and come back to Tanka is for their entrees, specifically the peking duck and baby back ribs that literally fall off the bone. Order the half portion of the peking duck (which serves about two to three) and watch as the crispy skin curls when they flambé it tableside. The meat is tender, slightly sweet, and served with a generous amount of pancakes, chili oil, and housemade hoisin.

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