Malakor Thai Isaan


Coral Gables

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This Thai restaurant is located on the main drag of Miracle Mile in Coral Gables. They specialize in food from the Northeastern region of Isaan, which is known for its boldly-flavored (read: spicy) food. The menu has some unique regional specialties, but—beyond a couple dishes—the food seriously disappoints. 

Let’s start with the good news: an Isaan appetizer of pork jerky reminds us of char siu in a good way and comes with Thai Sriracha for dipping. The Isaan sausages are pleasantly sour and garlicky. And another appetizer of deep-fried pork ribs are crisp on the outside and give way to very tender, tangy meat with just the type of funk you want from proper Thai food. But that’s about all that’s good here. The Isaan som tum is a bizarre failure—somehow both way too salty and sweet. A bamboo shoot soup flavored with yanang was shockingly plain. Even their pad thai features soggy noodles and is dressed in what could be best described as simple syrup. 

The bulk of the dishes here just don’t live up to the menu’s descriptions—and the resulting experience feels like being in a Twilight Zone episode where Thai food has no flavor.

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