In Broward, “Spanish food” is a loaded term. Too often, it’s code for Cuban or Puerto Rican food—a relic from when Anglo-Americans referred to all Latinos as “Spanish.” But Candela is truly a Spanish restaurant, as in they serve food from Spain in an ambiance that reminds us of a taberna. Start with an order of croquetas, including some of our favorite cod croquetas in South Florida. Then get a cazuela of almejas—excellent clams cooked in a garlicky, spicy white wine broth. Or, you can simply order a bottle of wine and several platters of Spanish cheeses and embutidos, like manchego, tetilla (stop giggling), jamón serrano, and chorizo cantimpalo.