Sala de Despiece’s colorful tiled ceiling has massive dangling silver hooks, which may seem a little strange at first, but once you realize the space was a former butcher shop, it all starts to make sense. These days, SDD is one of the hottest places in town for dinner, where each dish is a full-on event.

There’s eel with foie gras and apple that’s doused with the restaurant’s secret sauce, which the staff will caramelize directly in front of you with a torch, and the Rolex: a strip of egg yolk, pancetta, foie gras, truffle, and sauternes that’s infinitely tastier than a wristwatch. Even with three locations, you’ll still need to reserve well in advance.