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Review

Walking Spanish

$$$$
Written by

I know why this pop-up shares its name with a Tom Waits song about a death row inmate’s last meal - I can die happy after eating here. René Alesandro Coreas, who also cooks at Petit Trois, began selling his innovative Salvadoran food out of an apartment complex in Alhambra early in the fall. His pupusas are pillow-soft and very good - my favorites are the smoked chicken with nopal and the revuelta (chicharrón and cheese). The fried chicken sandwich here is also a game-changer - inspired by pan con pollo, this hunk of fried dark meat is served on brioche with tons of curtido (vinegar-heavy slaw), cucumbers, and tomato, and is an absolutely gorgeous mess. DM to order.

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