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Review

Tlacolula

$$$$
Written by

Located in a West Adams strip mall, Tlacolula is a mini-mart/restaurant hybrid that serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner to regulars or impromptu sit-ins who maybe walked in for some laundry detergent but stayed for tamales. You’ll also find popular Oaxacan ingredients for sale like squash blossoms, chorizo links, and crispy tlayudas by the dozen, as well as their delicious enfrijoladas that can (and should) be enjoyed at any hour. These pan-fried tortillas are covered in a smooth black bean puree and finished off with white onion and queso fresco. The tortillas are softened from the warm sauce, making them easy to cut through with a plastic fork and smear on a fresh bolillo roll from the shop’s bakery. We also love Tlacolula’s spicy red chilaquiles for breakfast that come with thin cuts of tasajo on top, which ticks several boxes on our ideal morning criteria list, as life sometimes calls for beef and salsa at 8am.

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