LAReview

Panaderia Y Restaurante Tlacolula image
7.6

Panaderia Y Restaurante Tlacolula

MexicanOaxacan

West Adams

$$$$Perfect For:BreakfastCasual Weeknight DinnerLunchWalk-Ins

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Located next to a laundromat in a West Adams strip mall, Tlacolula is a minimart/restaurant hybrid that serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner to people who might stop by for laundry detergent but stay for tamales. Drinking a morning cafe de olla in Tlacolula’s parking lot is particularly pleasant, along with creamy enfrijoladas that you can slice with a plastic spoon and their chilaquiles rojos—soft, saucy totopos covered in a tomatoey, not-too-spicy salsa and a runny egg that seeps into the chips. We also appreciate how every dish comes with Tlacolula’s freshly baked bolillo so we can scoop up every streak of sauce on our plate.

Food Rundown

Panaderia Y Restaurante Tlacolula image

photo credit: Jakob Layman

Chilaquiles Rojos Con Huevo

Perfection doesn’t exist, but these chilaquiles keep us up at night questioning this notion. The totopes are generously covered in extremely flavorful salsa roja–it’s tart, spicy, and just the right balance of sweet and savory. Along with some red onion, crumbly queso cotija, light Mexican crema, and runny fried eggs, this dish is an absolute masterpiece.

Enfrijoladas

These gently fried tortillas are doused with silky black beans and topped with crumbled queso fresco for some extra creaminess. Unfortunately, the hearty beans aren’t super flavorful, and the lack of filling in the folded tortillas leaves us mopping them up with the complimentary roll instead. An egg, some salsa, or maybe even meat would make this dish a bit more exciting, but it plays second chair next to the chilaquiles.

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FOOD RUNDOWN

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