Taking over the shopping-center spot that used to be home to Jerry’s Famous Deli in Marina del Rey, Stark’s serves American fare in a space that’s approximately the size of the contiguous United States. Both the menu - featuring everything from deviled eggs and skillet corn cakes to Impossible burgers and California snapper - and the interior (which includes a cafe, a booze bar, a raw bar, a fireplace, a patio, and booths so large you can literally nap in them) could use an edit, but the cocktails are solid, the space is comfortable, and the corned-beef-and-Swiss sandwich (a holdover from the Jerry’s days) is a fitting tribute to the former tenant.

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