Siam Sunset

Siam Sunset is attached to a motel that’s seen better days and is usually filled with senior citizens and the occasional Buddhist monk enjoying a bowl of noodles. It’s the Thai Town diner that time forgot—and we mean that in the most affectionate way possible. Your priority here should be the incredibly comforting Thai-Chinese breakfast dishes, which Siam Sunset does better than any place in town: fresh-fried stick doughnuts dipped in condensed milk, tofu pudding with ginger syrup, and jok, long-simmered rice porridge topped with preserved egg and bits of pork. And if you happen to roll in past noon, get the guay jub, rolled rice noodles, liver, and crispy pork in a murky five-spice broth that’s deeper than an Olympic swimming pool in terms of flavor. Cash only.

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