Pizzeria Sei

Pizzeria Sei is kind of like a pizza dispensary. It’s a sit-down restaurant with a short menu, sure, but really, it’s just a bare room with a few small tables, a line of chairs wrapped around a high-top counter, and a big pizza oven on display. You come here for one thing: incredible, blistered Neapolitan pies straight out of the oven. It’s a straightforward assembly line that churns out some of LA’s best pies, which is why this Pico-Robertson spot is a must-try in this city’s crowded pizza scene. 

Dining in means front-row seats to the pizza show, and after you order, everything happens quickly. By the time your water gets refilled, whatever small bites you order hit the table, like the colorful giardiniera or buttery slices of prosciutto cotto or mortadella on the salumi plate. The pizzas arrive shortly after, still smoking hot after traveling ten feet from the oven. In the case of the must-order margherita, steam seeps out of the dough’s charred cracks and carries a waft of tart, savory marinara and molten, stretchy fresh mozzarella. The blistered crust is puffy, asymmetrical, and perfect in texture: crispy on the edges, sturdy on the bottom, and chewy in the center.

photo credit: Jakob Layman

photo credit: Jakob Layman

photo credit: Jakob Layman

photo credit: Jakob Layman

photo credit: Jakob Layman

Pizzeria Sei’s style is inspired by Tokyo’s Neo-Neapolitan movement, which mostly means a little less sauce, a touch more salt on the crust, and a crispier/chewier bite. But it’s hard to pick out these distinctions unless you squint. What we do know is that this spot knows how to make a life-changing Neapolitan pizza, wherever the inspiration comes from.

At Sei, the lights are dimmed low, but it's not particularly romantic. There's wine, but not an extensive list. The barebones space mirrors the simple concept and feels like an echoey, unused gallery—which means whoever you bring here better feel moved by the art of pizza-making. Seating is also very limited, so you’re better off bringing just one other person rather than the entire family. And although walk-ins are welcome, they’re risky. The best way to avoid a wait is to make a reservation—which makes sense once you step inside the shoebox of a space.

But once you taste the pizzas at Sei, you’ll understand why it’s worth yanking yourself away from all distractions to savor char-speckled crusts and tart marinara. And once you’ve seen the light at the back of the oven, it’s time to head out because someone is waiting for your spot at the counter. 

Food Rundown

photo credit: Jakob Layman

Giardiniera

We know looks aren't everything, but this assortment of pickled farm vegetables is actually gorgeous. Purple cauliflower, celery stalks, and carrots bring tons of color and crunch, while the meaty castelvetrano olives round things out. We also love the subtle sweetness added by the fresh Italian herbs.

Prosciutto

This antipasto should be called "prosciutto and other delicious things to eat with it." Long slices of buttery prosciutto cotto are plated with a ball of soft bufala mozzarella and an arugula salad, in which tart vinaigrette complements the milder, icher flavors at play.

Tricolore Salad

This is just another good arugula salad and there’s nothing wrong with that. There are some Castelfranco greens for bitterness, plus parmesan and preserved lemon dressing for salt and acid. Consider it the sort of thing to silently munch on between slices of pizza.

Napoletana

Good things come in threes, including the anchovies, capers, and olives on this cheeseless pie. The tart marinara sauce keeps all of that wonderful brininess in check and brings the strong flavors into focus. The charred basil scattered on top is a nice touch, too.

Margherita

This is a perfectly executed classic that leaves you questioning why you need to overcomplicate things with more toppings. The sauce is wonderfully tart and flavorful on its own but gets an extra kick of aroma and pepperiness from the charred basil. The sauce is layered on thinly, but there’s enough to balance out the generous amounts of fior di latte.

photo credit: Jakob Layman

Bismark

This white pizza might sound like a salt bomb with its combo of two cheeses, proscittuto, and a egg plopped on top, but it's actually a very balanced pie that we find hard to share for selfish reasons. The fior di latte and pecorino are used in just the right ratios and you can use the runny orange yolk in the center as a dip for your crusts.

photo credit: Jakob Layman

Tiramisù

We're still trying to understand how this perfect tiramisú can be both firm and moist at the same time, but while we ponder that, try it for yourself. Instead of arriving as a pile of sweet mush, this sophisticated dessert keeps each bite interesting: sometimes you get bitter cocoa powder, sometimes you get a whiff of espresso, sometimes rich custard. We would happily consume a whole tray in one sitting.