LAReview

Pizzeria Sei review image
8.0

Pizzeria Sei

$$$$

8781 W Pico Blvd, Los Angeles
View WebsiteEarn 3X Points

Pizzeria Sei is kind of like a pizza dispensary. It’s technically a sit-down restaurant and there are a few salads on the menu, but really it's just an empty room with a few chairs and a pizza oven on display. You come here for one thing: very good, nicely charred Neapolitan pies straight out of the oven.

This straightforward approach makes this Pico-Robertson spot a standout addition to LA’s already crowded pizza scene

Dining in means front row seats to the assembly line, and after you order, everything happens quickly. By the time your water gets refilled, the pizzas hit the counter smoking hot after traveling six feet from the oven. In the case of the must-order margherita, steam seeps out of the dough’s charred cracks and carries a waft of tart, savory marinara. The blistered crust is puffy, asymmetrical, and perfect in texture: crispy on the edges, sturdy on the bottom, and chewy in the center.

Pizzeria Sei’s style is inspired by Tokyo's Neo-Neapolitan movement, which mostly means a little less sauce, a touch more salt on the crust, and a crispier/chewier bite. But it's hard to pick out these distinctions unless you really squint. What we do know is that this spot knows how to make a great Neapolitan pizza, wherever the inspiration comes from.

Jakob Layman

Pizzeria Sei review image

If it’s not already clear, this probably isn’t where you bring a first date. There’s no dim lighting, flickering candles, or extensive wine list. In fact, there’s no liquor at all. The barebones space mirrors the simple concept and feels more like an Arts District loft that doubles as an unused gallery space rather than an actual pizza restaurant. Seating is limited, with only one standalone table and bar chairs around the central oven, making this restaurant a no-go for your next family gathering. 

Pizzeria Sei is best experienced alone for lunch or a casual dinner, or maybe with just one other person who loves pizza more than the sound of their own voice. Dining discretely here is a simple but indulgent form of self-care. You come to yank yourself away from all the noise to savor char-speckled crusts and taste tart marinara that’s not hidden under layers of cheese. And once you’ve seen the light at the back of the oven, it’s time to head out, because someone is definitely waiting for your spot at the counter. 

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Food Rundown

Jakob Layman

Pizzeria Sei review image

Giardiniera

We know looks aren't everything, but this assortment of pickled farm vegetables is actually gorgeous. Purple cauliflower, celery stalks, and carrots bring tons of color and crunch, while the meaty castelvetrano olives round things out. We also love the subtle sweetness added by the fresh Italian herbs.

Prosciutto

This antipasto should be called "prosciutto and other delicious things to eat with it." Long slices of buttery prosciutto cotto are plated with a ball of soft bufala mozzarella and an arugula salad, in which tart vinaigrette complements the milder, icher flavors at play.

Tricolore Salad

This is just another good arugula salad and there’s nothing wrong with that. There are some Castelfranco greens for bitterness, plus parmesan and preserved lemon dressing for salt and acid. Consider it the sort of thing to silently munch on between slices of pizza.

Pizzeria Sei review image

Napoletana

Don’t question 2 + 2 = 4, and don’t question whether anchovies, capers, and olives are a timeless pizza combination. It just works. The tart marinara sauce on this cheeseless pizza keeps all of that wonderful brininess in check and brings the strong flavors into focus. The charred basil scattered on top is a nice touch, too.

Margherita

This is a perfectly executed classic that leaves you questioning why you need to overcomplicate things with more toppings. The sauce is wonderfully tart and flavorful on its own but gets an extra kick of aroma and pepperiness from the charred basil. The sauce is layered on thinly, but there’s enough to balance out the generous amounts of fior di latte.

Jakob Layman

Pizzeria Sei review image

Bismark

This white pizza might sound like a salt bomb with its combo of two cheeses, proscittuto, and a egg plopped on top, but it's actually a very balanced pie that we find hard to share for selfish reasons. The fior di latte and pecorino are used in just the right ratios and you can use the runny orange yolk in the center as a dip for your crusts.

Jakob Layman

Pizzeria Sei review image

Tiramisù

We're still trying to understand how this perfect tiramisú can be both firm and moist at the same time, but while we ponder that, try it for yourself. Instead of arriving as a pile of sweet mush, this sophisticated dessert keeps each bite interesting: sometimes you get bitter cocoa powder, sometimes you get a whiff of espresso, sometimes rich custard. We would happily consume a whole tray in one sitting.

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