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Parm Boyz

12477 W Washington Blvd.

Culver City, CA 90066

Parm Boyz is a weekly Italian-American pop-up at Weho’s Ronan. Every Sunday, they serve a four-course meal that is highly worth your time. Every meal comes with an instruction sheet, though the courses vary in amount of work you actually have to do - from the antipasti (no work) to the chicken parm itself (still not a lot of work, but does involve turning on the oven). There are also Caesar salad and tiramisu courses. Order via apps, or call Ronan at (323) 917-5100 to place your order.

TV Pairing: Wormwood (Netflix)

Wormwood is a remarkable documentary/drama miniseries about a scientist in the CIA who mysteriously fell out of a window and died in 1953. Directed by Errol Morris, it bounces back and forth between present-day documentary footage and a dramatization set in the ’50s (starring Peter Sarsgaard). And, much like Parm Boyz, the Italian-American pop-up that operates out of Ronan every Sunday, I keep waiting for people to start talking about it. Their four-course meal features Caesar salad, chicken and eggplant parm, and some excellent tiramisu. So these two under-the-radar stars go together perfectly - both are addictive and deeply satisfying. Only one of them involves an acid trip gone wrong (that we know of), but Parm Boyz is a journey in its own right.” - BK

With a name like Parm Boyz, you better make a damn good chicken parm. And while they’re not reinventing the (cheese) wheel at this pop-up, they are doing an excellent take on a classic parm. The chef grew up in Lynn, MA, near Boston, and - not surprisingly - this version reminds me of some childhood dinners in the North End at Italian restaurants like Joe Tecce’s and La Famiglia. There’s a beautiful red sea of incredibly rich sauce that would almost make you forget the chicken is the star of the show, if that chicken wasn’t so beautifully crispy and tender. By the way, don’t leave without an order of garlic bread stuffed with burrata, mascarpone, and cream cheese - it’s perfect for sopping up some leftover marinara sauce.

There’s no meal more comforting for me than chicken parmesan. So in a year as sh*tty as this one, I was very happy to discover Parm Boyz’s residency at The Corner Door in Culver City. The chicken parm is pounded thin and extremely crispy, but is still moist, and the eggplant parm nails that happy medium between too-dry and too-mushy. Both versions take me back to some of my favorite meals from my childhood, eating tremendous Italian-American food in Boston’s North End, and I suspect this isn’t a coincidence, since the chef is from Lynn, MA, just north of Boston. They also put their own spin on other classics - like garlic bread stuffed with burrata, mascarpone, and cream cheese, and a Caesar salad with brown butter croutons - that set the mood just as well as the red checkered tablecloths. - BK

Chicken parmesan is exactly what I want to be eating when the temperature drops into the g*ddamn 40s at night, so Parm Boyz’s new weekend residency at The Corner Door in Culver City is very good news for me. The chicken parm nails the “crispy breading/moist chicken breast /gooey cheese” ratio that every parm should strive for. They’re also serving up inventive versions of checkered-tablecloth classics, like garlic bread stuffed with burrata, mascarpone, and cream cheese, Caesar salad with brown butter croutons, and a soppressata-heavy antipasto that I suspect even Carmela Soprano would approve of. Also, if you’re interested in doing dine-in, the set-up here is super-spacious, with a comfortable amount of distance between tables.

- BK

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