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Openaire is the hotel restaurant at The Line in Koreatown in the old Commissary space. The dining room still looks like a greenhouse on a Hamptons estate, but the restaurant is now run by the chef from Melisse and Charcoal, so the food has changed quite a bit. Some of it works - the hamachi crudo and the sirloin steak with a toasted garlic brown butter sauce are particularly great - but other dishes don’t quite land, like the shrimp that comes with a weird combination of beans, turnips and an herby sauce. If you’re staying in the hotel or happen to be nearby, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by this place, but there’s also no need to seek it out.

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