We are not immune to the Chef’s Table-fueled N/Naka craze, and were therefore extremely excited to try the new izakaya in West Adams from the N/Naka chefs. At N/Soto, even a simple piece of toro nigiri made us say “wow.” And the majority of what we sampled on first visit blew us away. Mentai mochi come ever so slightly fried and placed in nori wrappers alongside a nutty dipping sauce. Scallop sashimi is presented like caprese, layered between tomatoes and topped with pepitas. The kushiyaki fill the dining room and patio with meaty smoke, making it impossible to not get involved (we love the kurobuta sausage skewers that snap under your teeth). And the steamed clams in a delicate dashi broth are a non-negotiable. Reservations are tough to snag, but dinner at N/Soto really feels like trying something new.