LAReview
Much of the fun in dining at Monarch comes from gawking at its whimsical dining room. The dreamy, new-wave Chinese banquet hall in Arcadia goes heavy on sex appeal, with cloud-like seating, scalloped tables, and mythical baby blue touches. The maximalist scene is typically filled with a hodgepodge of martini-fueled meet cutes and festive family dinners. If you’ve been to the jade-toned Chifa in Eagle Rock, Monarch’s ethereal decor might feel a bit familiar. That’s because both places are co-owned (and co-designed) by Humberto Leon, the famed fashion designer behind Opening Ceremony. But Monarch is more than just a glamorous fashionista side project—it’s a trailblazing San Gabriel Valley restaurant with memorable food and an ambiance that makes you feel like you’re at the center of a meticulously art-directed universe.
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
Without coming off as gimmicky or over-calculated, the menu features twists on Cantonese cuisine that are consistently good, and occasionally great enough to put you in a trance. Dishes like the egg noodle bolognese and baked pork chop rice are pumped-up versions of what you’d find at cha chaan tangs—simple Hong Kong cafes from the British colonial era known for their fusion-y style of diner food. There’s also a crispy plate of sweet and sour pork made with kiwi instead of pineapple, juicy si yao chicken poached in housemade soy sauce, and an entire section of the menu dedicated to Australian wagyu, just in case you want to ball out on a $200 tomahawk. You'll find wine, beer, and some playful cocktails on the drink menu—none of them are especially remarkable, but a few sesame Old-Fashioneds will only add to the “anything-is-possible-tonight” feel that already exists at Monarch.
There are a few dishes we’d prioritize for any occasion—the colorful take on turnip cakes made with shredded beets, a wok-fried black peppercorn lobster tail that’s a strong contender for best lobster dish in LA, and a creamy, silky soup stocked with corn and crab meat. From there you can take one of two paths—a fancy, flourish-filled night of filet mignon tartare and steamed egg with monkfish liver and trout roe, or a simpler, more homestyle meal starring an excellent bowl of beef noodle soup or garlicky shrimp fried rice. Whichever path you choose, come planning to share everything, like a French fashion model doing a “What’s In My Bag?” video for Vogue.
A night at Monarch is so distinct that merely calling this place “cool” would be slander. We can't envision any other dining experience that effortlessly combines filet mignon, Chinese chicken salad, and T-back chairs upholstered with a baby blue cow print. Given that the restaurant is only open Friday through Sunday evening, dining at Monarch is almost by definition a special occasion affair. But if a fun meal of conversation-starting dishes surrounded by hot people in a periwinkle banquette doesn’t scream “big night out,” we don’t know what does.
Food Rundown
Beet Cake
A play on the pan-fried turnip cakes you’d find on a dim sum cart, these sliced beet cakes are crispy along the edges, yet somehow melt in your mouth while you chew. These plump purple squares are what you want to kick off your meal.
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
Black Pepper Lobster Tail
This spicy, sweet lobster dish is a must-order. Tender chunks of meat are doused in a Hong Kong-style black pepper sauce that’s loaded with bits of chopped garlic, plus some punchy black peppercorns. We could eat this saucy seafood situation again and again without pause.
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
Si Yao Chicken
A classic Cantonese staple (and a holdover from the menu at Chifa), this chicken is a great entree to split. It’s juicy as can be and poached in light, slightly-sticky aged soy sauce that smells a whole lot sweeter than it tastes.
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
Addicting Curry Noodle
With its intriguing combination of curry powder and squid ink noodles, we were hoping this would be a standout dish at Monarch. Unfortunately, there’s a remarkable lack of flavor and the medley of shrimp, calamari, and scallops is a bit rubbery. Feel free to skip it.
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
Baked Pork Chop Rice
Monarch doesn’t mess much with the formula of this classic Hong Kong-style comfort food, which is a good thing—their version has thick layers of crunchy pork cutlet, sweet tomato sauce, and gooey mozzarella that arrives bubbling from the oven on a bed of egg fried rice. It’s hearty, so plan on sharing.
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
Dad's Beef Noodle
An excellent bowl of noodles we’d eat once a week. The fragrant, beefy broth is full of tender wagyu brisket and springy, thick wheat noodles, which balance each other out like an old married couple. Monarch’s version is on the smaller side, so we recommend ordering one bowl for every two people at your table.