At first glance, Los Cocos appears to simply be a Salvadoran bakery stocked with sweet breads, cookies, and French pastries like chocolatey eclairs. But if you look closer, you’ll find this Del Rey shop makes some great pupusas with plenty of plant-based options. Like the excellent squash, carrot, onion, loroco, and bean pupusa that’s generously filled and nicely charred on the outside. The vegetable stuffing is gently cooked into a Salvadoran succotash of sorts and gives the handmade masa a green tint as it tries to peek out of its shell. The shop’s purple cabbage curtido is as nice to look at as it is delicious to eat, with its sharp vinegar bite. Top the whole thing with their spicy tomato salsa as well to bring a nice freshness and extra moisture to the masa. And if you have a sweet tooth, leave some room for eclairs because, after all, you’re already here.
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