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L'Assiette Steak Frites

PHOTOS: Holly Liss

Mumford and Sons has three songs: that fast one, that slow one, and that medium one that builds into a fast one. OK, they have a lot of songs but they’re all basically just one of those three. We like Mumford and Sons. We know what we’re going to get. Are they our favorite band? No. To truly be considered a favorite, we would definitely want some variety. But look, there are days when we want a sh*tload of pseudo-folk rock and the natural euphoria that accompanies that.

The lesson of Mumford and Sons is that if you’re going to just do one thing (or three things), you better do it well. Enter L’Assiette Steak Frites. Specialization is the name of the game here, as evidenced by the miniscule menu – three entrees (steak and fries, fish and fries, or mushrooms and fries), with your choice of one of two appetizers. However, a glance around the place (not to mention the name of the restaurant) lets you know pretty quickly, though, that the steak frites is, in essence, the one thing this place serves.

L’Assiette Steak Frites serves up slow-cooked, tender steak flank with a pile of fries sitting atop a puddle of “secret sauce.” This secret sauce is full-flavored, tangy, and delicious. You’re going to want to drown your steak in it, and will find yourself dipping your fries in as well. If forced to extend our Mumford metaphor, the “secret sauce” is probably the banjo. The full flavor of the sauce can be a tad overpowering, leading to the entrée course feeling a bit one-note, but it’s hard to argue when that one note is a pretty damn good one.

In a long, cozy room that has equal parts elegant decor and sports on TV, L’Assiette’s vibe can be confusing. But rest assured, this is a good, unstuffy, casual date spot, especially if you’re trying to make sure the person you’re currently courting can handle their meat.

Food Rundown

Sorrel Soup

Given the choice between the salad and this soup, you get the soup every time. While you may hesitate to order something this hearty before a steak dinner, the tang and brightness of the sorrel keeps this light and refreshing.

Steak Frites

While we’ve talked about how much we liked the flavor here, we also should mention the portion size. It’s huge. To make it better, you get half the serving up front, and then they refresh both your meat and fries as you finish the first plate. And that’s magic.

Profiteroles

Solid, but nothing mind-blowing. The puff pastry was a little bland, and the chocolate was stingy enough that the ice cream was the real star.

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