Friday Night Lights was an amazing TV show, if only for the way it managed to focus so heavily on its setting (“Texas forever”) while ignoring pretty much every bad thing we all know about Texas.** In real life, Tim Riggins would have been a raging racist, Lyla would have been knocked up and married before her junior year, and the whole town would have just been a big Republican pile of Buddy Garritys. But damn was that show great. We got to sit back and enjoy everything good about Texas (football, southern accents, and football) without actually having to live in that godforsaken state. And now that HomeState has opened its doors here in Los Angeles, there is literally no reason to ever step foot inside the Texas borders again. Thank you, HomeState. And Coach Taylor.
Currently running for breakfast and lunch only, HomeState serves up a variety of Tex-Mex bites to the Los Feliz neighborhood. Since it opened in December of 2013, it has been steadily tweaking and improving. The addition of several more outdoor tables brings some much needed relief to what began as a cramped affair.
The migas steal the show for breakfast, while the tacos are definitely a star of the lunch menu. But lording over all is the king of Tex-Mex: the queso. You can order it regular, like a moron, or you can get it “loaded,” like a sane person, which will add on some chili, guacamole, pico de gallo, and sour cream to go with the perfectly balanced queso. Pro tip: the loaded queso comes in layers. Don’t stir; dig in as is. Variety can be crucial if you’re eating a whole cup of cheese, and this will give you a new treat every 5 or 6 bites.
**For the sake of this review, I’m ignoring Austin, which is the most authentically Texan thing I could do.
Queso is why Tex-Mex holds a place in our hearts,and these folks do it to perfection. Make sure you order it “loaded,” and please sign my petition for the restaurant to make “loaded” your only option. It’s for the good of everyone.
We recommend the Lonestar Migas, which adds in a good amount of juicy brisket on top of the warm and filling migas. The addition of some strips of chips cooked into the eggs gives these a great crunch.
While the breakfast menu is the real strong suit for this place, especially if you’re gross enough to eat queso for breakfast, the lunch menu has a few highlights as well. The brisket and chicken tacos are both solid choices, with a great cabbage slaw on top to give these a fresh finish. We definitely recommend these (with the housemade flour tortillas) over the sandwiches, which have a tendency to get a bit dry.
Light, airy, and sweet. Take a few bites first, in case you fill up on the queso and can’t get to them after.