At Gigi’s in Hollywood, you’ll feel like you’re special. The host greets everyone like they’ve been waiting all night for this moment. When you ask your server about a particular wine by the glass, they’ll send over the somm, who will then send over four generous tastes. And the plushly designed interior has the capacity to transport you to a bar in New York where the hand-illustrated walls are full of secrets, even if you sit outside and just pass through to find the restroom. Gigi’s is less about the food than it is about having a night out, and yet the French bistro options will stick with you, whether you snack on delicate raw scallops, or opt for steak frites. It won’t be easy to get a reservation, but when you do, you’ll be rewarded with excellent service, steak tartare, and an opportunity to finally wear that outfit you bought in 2019.