Fingers Crossed

Much like Nicki Minaj’s alter ego, the focus at Evan Funke’s new Hollywood restaurant is on all things Roman, including Tonda-style pies - super-thin, round pizzas that come on perfect, almost-charred crusts. Our favorites are the classic margherita, with basil, fior di latte cheese, and salsa di pomodoro (a.k.a. tomato sauce, for those not fluent in Italian), and the diavola, a fiery pizza made from a mix of red sauce, peperoncino, and super-spicy salame piccante. Like the lineup of pastas at Funke’s other spot, Felix, these pizzas aren’t flashy - they’re well-crafted testaments to traditional techniques (and chef Funke’s fastidiousness), both of which are welcome additions to the pizza scene.