Spontaneous plans are increasingly harder to come by these days. Even your dentist will hit you with a two-month waiting list for a teeth cleaning. But then there's Eszett, a Silver Lake strip mall spot where spontaneity actually works. You can walk in for small bites and a glass of wine, or you can stick around for outrageously good, snacky-shareable dishes that are some of the best things you can eat in Silver Lake. Dining at Eszett is what you make of it, and we love that this unpretentious neighborhood spot welcomes popping in on a whim, even on Friday nights without a reservation. 

photo credit: Matt Gendal

Eszett's menu is a clever mix of "lowbrow" and "highbrow" dishes. Gussied-up fries, corn dogs, and a mushroom french dip share space with grilled pork chops, pastrami smoked beets, and our favorite: silky roasted eggplant drenched in chili vinaigrette. The chef here used to run L&E Oyster Bar, but rather than a seafood theme, the food at Eszett doesn't really adhere to one cuisine, aside from the fact that the kitchen likes to feature produce grown in their backyard garden. Mostly, they just cook things that taste delicious. The juicy chicken wings tossed with salsa macha are a must-order, and we're big fans of the puffy, two-bite shrimp toasts.

It'd be fair to call Eszett casual, but we might go one step further—the dining room feels a lot like an apartment, or at least one you wish you could move into. It's a small, personal space with books, potted plants, and mostly bare walls that somehow manages to feel warm and comfortable even when it's completely full (the good music and great wine list both help in this case). 

photo credit: Matt Gendal

Reservations here aren't strictly necessary unless you show up on a busy weekend at primetime, and even then, the staff seems to have a magical power to squeeze you in anyway. It's that kind of accessibility that inspires us to turn off the Chopped Junior reruns and head to Eszett on those nights when pre-planning anything seems like a chore. We'd happily recommend it for a last-minute meal with friends, a relaxed second date, or just sitting alone at the bar with a glass of wine—any situation where you want to eat fantastic food without making a big fuss. 

Food Rundown

photo credit: Matt Gendal

Shrimp Toast

We can't describe these delicious fried bites of toast without sounding like we're telling an ancient riddle: They're crispy but soggy, savory but sweet, burnt but still soft. There's a pleasant shrimp flavor going on that recalls prawn chips, plus hints of ginger, soy sauce, and scallion.

photo credit: Matt Gendal

Chicken Wings

These smoky wings arrive nicely charred yet juicy on the inside, and the salsa macha isn't too oily or, surprisingly, that spicy. Still, expect messy drippage on your hands.

photo credit: Matt Gendal

Eggplant + Italian Grilling Peppers

Calling something spongy that isn't cake sounds odd, but this expertly grilled eggplant is just that: the tender eggplant soaks up all the bright, spicy chili vinaigrette we'd drink if no one were watching. We also give bonus points for the generous amount of blistered sweet peppers scattered all over.

Smoked Lamb

This dish is like getting a waffle maker for your birthday: it's great, and you're excited about it, but you'll probably forget it in a few days. The lamb was rubbed with tangy sumac and nicely cooked, the white bean hummus was just OK, and we wish the whole thing came with more fresh pita.

photo credit: Matt Gendal

Basque Cheesecake

This is a solid Basque cheesecake and we mean that in the literal sense. It's not runny or custardy, but more similar to a Japanese cheesecake in its fluffiness. Although it could be a little more moist, the excellent blueberry compote on top made up for it.