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photo credit: Wonho Frank Lee

Dunsmoor review image

Dunsmoor

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A restaurant with a roaring open fire in the dining room doesn’t sound like the coolest place to be peak summer, but Dunsmoor—a rustic, high-ceiling space in Glassell Park from the chef who used to run Hatchet Hall—is packed with creative types in cardigans who somehow aren’t sweating in the 90-degree heat. Most of the Southern-leaning menu here is cooked over a wood-fired hearth, which gives a subtle smoky edge to dishes like sour milk cornbread flecked with green chiles and roasted oysters in a rich Creole sauce. Ironically though, the best dishes we had were raw, like an umami-bomb lamb tartare and a glistening albacore crudo with raw ginger and crispy shallots. Our only gripe is that the dessert menu is just a slice of so-so peach pie (for now). Otherwise, even in the context of an ongoing discussion surrounding gentrification, Dunsmoor has the makings of a solid NELA spot with fantastic, decently priced food.

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