LAReview

photo credit: Caviar Kaspia

Caviar Kaspia review image

Caviar Kaspia

$$$$

8475 Melrose Pl, Los Angeles
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This ridiculous Paris transplant on Melrose Place is a great way burn money fast. We have nothing against a bougie little caviar-driven dinner, but Caviar Kaspia is all gimmick. Until recently, to get a dinner reservation you either ha to be invited to an influencer dinner, know someone who knows someone, or join a vague online waitlist that asks you for your occupation and social handles, and hope for the best. (We took the latter route—feigned an identity as a horticulturist—and it took us just under a month to hear back.) 

There’s a luxe interior, and a romantic, candlelit patio, but nothing can make up for the phoned-in menu, which, aside from lots of overpriced caviar, is made up of forgettable crudo, oily vegetables, and overcooked pasta topped with uni. The famous dish here is the caviar-topped baked potato, which is your standard Idaho spud, topped with your choice of caviar, meaning this humble potato can range from $120 to $1,035. The funny thing about a baked potato topped with caviar is that all that starch and sour cream tend to mask the delicate sturgeon roe (the same applies to the stodgy caviar-topped grilled cheese). If you find yourself here and can bear to leave without posting a photo of the bougiest potato in LA, we suggest getting the blinis instead. But just know, you won’t be able to enjoy your caviar with ice-cold vodka. Caviar Kaspia had the audacity to open a caviar restaurant without a full liquor license. Champagne will have to do.

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