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Review

Anne Fishbein

Bicyclette

$$$$
Written by
Anne Fishbein

Listen, we don’t always want to eat French food that tastes like it’s been surgically injected with five to six sticks of butter by Julia Child herself. But when we do, we know we'll be heading to Bicyclette. Run by the Los Angeles power duo behind République, this cozy, subterranean spot in the old Sotto space in Beverlywood is a traditional French bistro in every sense of the word. Unlike their other restaurants, the focus here is on French home-style cooking; simple, heavy dishes like caramelized onion tarte tatin, crusty baguettes topped with sardines, and beef short ribs served with golden potato mousseline that are so tender, you can slice through them with a butter knife. However, no meal is complete without their escargots en croute – baked in a buttery, flaky pastry crust (which our server instructed us to delicately cut into, before flipping upside down and letting the escargot and its garlic/parsley/butter juices soak through it), it’s exactly what we want to be eating when my cooler, more-cultured alter ego takes over my body and demands nourishment.

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