Ardor is one of the wildest nights you can have at an LA restaurant. It’s technically on the ground floor at The West Hollywood Edition hotel, but walking into its sprawling dining room feels like you’ve stepped onto a Miami mega-yacht that’s been completely suspended from space and time.

Staff greets you in floor-length white satin gowns, accent lights jut out from tropical plants—creating the effect of a knockoff Fenty runway, and everyone else will either be watching TikTok or recording something for TikTok. Ardor takes people-watching to Olympic levels, but in the event you tire of witnessing international gazillionaires be monsters to anyone refilling their water glass, the good news is there’s solid food. Standouts include pillowy milk bread topped with dried tomatoes, shrimp plancha in a creamy scampi sauce, and some of the best onion rings we’ve ever eaten.

Ardor isn’t for everyone—or every day— but if you’re in the market for an over-the-top meal where money isn’t a problem, this hotel restaurant is one of the best shows in town.