We’ve officially reached the age of the LA mega-restaurant. Massive spots are taking over entire blocks of downtown, and famous chefs from other cities have finally realized we have the best produce in the country and want to know what serving a fresh eggplant in January feels like. The more they bring their restaurants in, the more LA seems like it’s on the fast-track to becoming a version of the Vegas strip - a spread-out museum of the best restaurants from everywhere else.
Take a deep inhale and unclench your crystals. Because as long as places like All Time keep opening, we have nothing to worry about. This Los Feliz cafe feels like a completely new, and completely original, version of LA dining.
Located on Hillhurst a few blocks south of Griffith Park, All Time looks like it’s just a coffee shop when you walk in. That’s because it is a coffee shop. Come any day before 3pm and you’ll find people hanging out in the mostly-outdoor space, getting work done on laptops and eating pastries and egg dishes they ordered from the counter inside.
But we aren’t dropping an 8.9 on a place because they have a nice patio and a good breakfast burrito. All Time’s rating is earned because of their full-service dinner that transforms the place from a neighborhood cafe to a restaurant you drive across the city to experience.
All Time is fine dining on the concrete front patio of a Los Feliz coffee shop. The dinner menu changes daily, but know that whatever is written on their glass placard menu will be incredible. Expect some version of their “good ass” salad, maybe a cavatelli, a few giant pieces of meat, and if you’re lucky, a burrata-and-tomato covered focaccia that deserves to be its own religion.
To be clear, All Time is not just a coffee shop - and their food doesn’t come at coffee shop prices. Most big dishes fall in the $25-$35 range, so you’re definitely going to spend some money here, but that’s what makes All Time different. Dinner here feels somewhat fancy, without all the annoying things that come with a fancy night out. No valet, no whispering sommelier - you can even wear shorts if you want. And if that’s not the platonic ideal of LA dining, we don’t know what is.
Famous chefs and their mega-restaurants will keep coming to LA - and many of them will be good. But when you need a reminder of what a real LA restaurant is, go to All Time.
If there is gas in your car and you have even a half hour to spare tonight, go to All Time and eat this. It’s thick, house-made focaccia smothered in fresh burrata and topped with sungold tomatoes. It tastes like grilled cheese and tomato soup with supernatural powers and is one of the best things we’ve eaten in a long time.
All Time has their own garden, so this salad changes every day based on the things that were ripe for picking. $14 might seem a little steep for a starter salad, but once you see the size of this thing, it’ll all make sense.
With a menu mostly comprised of meats and vegetables, the cavatelli certainly sticks out at All Time. And you should certainly order it. The pasta itself is well-made, but it’s the crunch from zucchini and bite of the chard and sausage that complete it.
Of the big meat dishes, this is our favorite. We could eat the pork by itself any day of the week, but the fact that they provide a personal taco-making station complete with tortillas, avocado, and succotash takes this dish to another level.
This is our favorite dish off their daytime menu. The house-made Greek sausage combined with the whipped feta is rich and slightly spicy, but not so heavy that you have to go in late to work.
This is one of our favorite cobblers we’ve ever had, and we’re not even sure if it’s technically a cobbler. Regardless of what flavor it is tonight, order it.